Maria Grazia Chiuri a une fois de plus enchanté le monde de la mode avec sa dernière collection haute couture pour Dior, dévoilée pour l’automne-hiver 2024-2025.
Dior Fall Winter 2022-2023: Mariage entre le présent et l’avenir
C’est au coeur du Jardin des Tuileries que prenait place le tant attendu défilé Dior. Alliant créativité et performance, la collection signée Maria Grazia Chiuri nous emmène dans une nouvelle ère.
The Next Era: L’oeuvre de Mariella Bettineschi
Le défilé prend place dans l’iconique cube Dior. Les invités entrent dans cet intrigant univers imaginé par l’artiste italienne Marialla Bettineschi. Nous découvrons une galerie de peintures exclusivement composée de portraits féminins dont les yeux coupés et doublés nous interrogent sur le jugement qui a et qui continue de conditionner la femme d’hier et celle d’aujourd’hui. ce sont des travaux de grands maîtres – dont Léonard, Manet, Botticelli et Goya – représentant reines, infantes, duchesses, courtisanes et odalisques.
Cependant, le regard s’inverse pour proposer une autre lecture de l’histoire de l’art. Cette « œuvre-cadre » du défilé de mode donne vie aux concepts que souhaite explorer Maria Grazia Chiuri, pour reconstruire, notamment, un rapport performatif entre le corps et le vêtement, dans une perspective esthétique technique. Une succession d’opérations associant formes, savoir-faire, matériaux et technologies futuristes.
Des invités d’exception
PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Jisoo attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Anya Taylor-Joy attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Yara Shahidi attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Elle Macpherson attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Céleste Epiphany Waite attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Maya Hawke attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Isabelle Adjani attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Chiara Ferragni attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Mathilde Warnier attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Romee Strijd attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Kimberley Anne Voltemas attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Iris Law attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Sharon Alexie attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Alexa Chung attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Lucie Zhang attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Nine d’Urso attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Zita d’Hauteville attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Louise Bourgoin attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Gugu Mbatha-Raw attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Ashley Park attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Greta Fernandez attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Karin Viard attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Aseel Omran attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Nicole Garcia attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Charithra Chandran attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Jeanne Damas attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Lucie de la Falaise attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Nadia Tereszkiewicz attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Negin Mirsalehi attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Bianca Brandolini attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Heart Evangelista attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Olivia Palermo attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Razane Jammal attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Shana Chasman and Nadia Fares attend the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Amalie Gassmann attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Cleo von Adelsheim attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: A attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Maria Sharapova attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Louane attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Toni Garrn attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 01: Karen Wazen attends the Dior Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
Le mariage entre le présent et l’avenir
Nous sommes agréablement surpris par la prise de position de Maria Grazia Chiuri. Incroyablement opulent, la directrice artistique « futurise » les classiques de la maison. Les souliers imaginés par Roger Vivier pour la maison dans les années 50′ sont métamorphosés en escarpins athlétiques et en bottes de motards ornés de muguet pour la plupart. Cependant l’inspiration sport se retrouve aussi dans les vestes. Coup de crush pour les gants aux influences « Sons Of Anarchy ». Le tailleur Bar voit sa structure transformée en un système de régulation d’humidité du corps le réchauffant grâce à des techniques innovantes développées dans les laboratoires de D-Air lab.
« Vous savez, je pense que le moment est venu de rappeler que les gens doivent commencer à lire davantage, à penser et à réfléchir. Il ne suffit plus de coller un emoji sur les réseaux sociaux », a conclu Maria Grazia Chiuri.